Orthodox Monastery outside of Chania
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Greece: Day 10
As we travel to our final destination city, Chania, I admire the Aegean coastline with the mountains off to our left. We are at that point where we know the end is near and reflections are inevitable concerning what has transpired and what are some of the many lessons learned. I feel extremely fortunate to have made this journey and to travel with such knowledgeable guides. The wealth of information that we received is overwhelming, but I hope that continued reflection will keep some of it alive. It surely will find its way into theological reflection, teaching, and general global—economic, religious, social, and cultural—thinking. The opportunity to take time and see the various historical sites, to hear the stories behind this culture and its role in shaping the world that we know today, and the chance to soak up the natural beauty is a blessing.
During one of our early visits in Olympia (or was it Delphi? the Acropolis museum?), our guide, Sophia, made the simple, yet profound, remark concerning the mythologies of Greece that they express the tension within us as humans and as societies. The beauty we can create along with the destruction we can mete out; the ingenuity that builds spectacular structures that continue thousands of years after they are built and the hubris that can bring such structures to ruin; the hospitality and egalitarian cultures that express such grace-filled aspects of our being and the fear that drives people to squash such kindness and develop rigid hierarchies that rule but do not add to life; and the inevitable searching and striving of humans to know and to discover and to be more than they are and the Achilles heel that is that same searching and striving beyond the important boundaries of who we are.
The truth is that we continue to wrestle with these tensions (and the others that exist within our individual or collective psyches), and we are wise, it seems to me, to continue to place ourselves in the midst of these experiences and discussions that force us to consider the “other” and the other side (or sides) of what we experience. We will not create a utopia where everyone agrees (nor do we really want that, I suspect). If we can develop places where we respect the voice of the other, and we welcome the discussions on easy and difficult issues that we face, seeing this as our contribution to the story—dare I say myth—that has been echoing down the millennia, perhaps we will be a little better in the long run. King has certainly embraced this notion and challenged those on the trip to think beyond themselves, while also finding their place within the larger conversation.
I like to think that the Church, at its best, is a similar institution. Rooted in the belief that all possess the imprint of the divine—the Imago Dei—we can’t help but enter the conversation with the other from a place of respect and honor that reality within ourselves at the same time. The disagreements and difficult conversations and engagements continue, however we hopefully are living a bit more of the presence of God when we participate with grace, flexibility, mercy, and courage. The gift, ultimately, is not arriving at an absolute truth. As the Greeks would know and could tell you, it’s the journey.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Traditional way to hold the violin Greece
Greece: Day 9
Okay, I am afraid of heights! Or, more precisely, I am afraid of coach buses taking hairpin turns on single lane roadways with 600 foot cliffs on one side of the bus! The ride today was stunning. . . and frightening. Thankfully, Costas, our driver, is an expert, and were able to enjoy one of the most beautiful parts of Crete, even if we were jumping out of our skin from time to time.
We traveled from Rethymnon to the south coast of Crete to Fragokastello (a Venetian fortress on the Libyan Sea). The trip south was beautiful as we passed through the White Mountains. They are not like the Whites in New Hampshire! The limestone on the peaks gives the mountains a white look, and they are mostly barren with scrub trees dotting the face of the mountains. The geography—mountains throughout Greece, the barrenness of the Mani, the fecund valleys of the Peloponnese, the rich valleys of Crete, and the water, always the water!—creates a feeling of wonder and awe at the natural beauty, a sense of freedom and openness (much like Montana in my mind) due to the vistas and the limitless horizon when looking out upon the sea, and the senses come alive because of the various plants that awaken you to living in this wonderful place. As I run, I smell the rosemary, sage, fig trees, and other herbs and bushes that grow naturally and allow you to enter into the reality of this place with another sense.
We stopped at the caves of Matala yesterday and took a swim in the Libyan sea. It was very refreshing and a chance for the kids to relax a bit after a very full week. Today we also took some time to swim in the beautiful section of the Libyan Sea at Plakias. It was stunning: crystal clear, emerald water, sand beaches and all surrounded by mountains. Each day of the trip has been filled from morning to late evening, and I have been very impressed with the students with whom we travel. They are engaged, curious, move easily among themselves, and possess good senses of humor. They have been a delight to travel with.
We visited the monastery at Prevali to close out the day. It is above Plakias on the way back to Rethymnon. It has a small and icon-filled chapel that is rich with the imagery of the Greek Orthodox tradition. It was started at the beginning of the Turkish period (late 17th century) and played critical roles during the resistance to the Turks and, during the 1940’s, to the Nazis. The Turks destroyed the monastery a couple times because of their support of the resistance to the Turks. The monastery developed a tunnel from its hilltop location down to the sea and used it to move resistant fighters and Allied fighters during W.W. II to the Libyan Sea and onto safe locations in Egypt. It is interesting to think of the political role that this monastery was involved in, and to consider how the spiritual is not divorced from the physical and political. The question has always been asked, “What is the appropriate relationship and balance?” When it comes to fighting fascism, the response seems rather easy (though there are too many examples of churches supporting Hitler and Mussolini). Religious traditions have never possessed a quick and easy answer to the spiritual/political question. Indeed, Jesus, one of the most spiritual individuals was executed precisely because of his politics). Therefore, we cannot deny that our reflections on the Holy and a belief in Christ does not allow for total inaction in this world. Indeed, such activity may call us more fully and meaningfully into an engagement with the world. Prevali stands as a prime example.
Monday, June 28, 2010
Today we travel from Heraklion to the south of Crete and then back to the north and the town of Rethymnon.
The visit yesterday was to the Palace of Knossso, not the “castle”, and we followed up with a time at the Historical Museum in Heraklion this morning learning about the first and second Byzantine periods on Crete, the Arab influence that was sandwiched between the Byzantine periods, and the Venetian period that lasted through the mid 17th century.
We saw a great deal of the beautiful icons, tapestries, altar pieces, and vestments of the Greek Orthodox tradition from the Byzantne periods. It is clear that the Orthodox tradition permeates so much of Greek life. In talking to Christos, he mentioned that during the 60's and 70's there was a drop in attendance at Orthodox services, but there seems to be a resurgence in commitment to the church in Greece. He also noted that it does not have so much of a fundamentalist element within the piety, but the tradition (and particularly the focus on Christ) is what dominates.
We stopped on our way to Matalla at Gortis, which is the site of an community dating back to the 3rd or 4th century BCE. It is known for the law of Gortis which is chiseled upon a wall behind the theater of the old town. The law is one of the oldest expressions we have of rules governing common life (e.g. the rights of intermarriage between a slave and free person, what is just compensation for particular grievances, etc.). The society was divided into four parts: citizens with full rights, citizens with rights except being a Cretan, slaves who were free but enlisted to care for crops surrounding the town, and slaves who were owned.
In Gortis, the remains of the basilica of Titus are to be found. Titus was charged by Paul to evangelize Crete. He was from a wealthy family and was killed by the Romans for his work on Crete. The basilica is built upon his grave, though it was not built until the 6th century.
Throughout our trip, we have talked with various people about the economy in Greece. While we have been in Greece, there have been a few strikes (interestingly, the U.S. soccer victory over Algeria was done without announcers as they striked for a few days. No loss: it would have been Greek to us all anyway). We have never felt any threat, and the strikes in Greece are quite orderly. In fact, the fire started at a bank—and killed a few bank workers--a few months ago during a general protest was considered a devastating event and unheard of in modern strikes.
A consistent refrain during conversations about the economy is a direct or indirect reference to immigrants (Albanians, Africans, Pakistanis, etc.) as a major part of the problem. Yes, there was graft in the government. Yes, there was overreaching by many with regard to credit. Yes, there need to be more expectations of workers. Yes . . . but “things are not like they once were, and the immigrants. . .” was a quote we heard more than once. The answer to immigration in Greece or elsewhere is one that does not possess a silver bullet, and I see it as multi-faceted. What is interesting (and scary) is the nationalism approaching xenophobia when things are tough. It will be interesting to see what is done here.
Finally, a wonderful aspect of the trip has been following the World Cup soccer tournament while we are here. We were in a hotel yesterday filled with Germans and Brits, and the game between the two countries was enjoyable to watch as a soccer fan as well as to be a spectator of the spectators. There is a very strong worldly element in Crete with many people from many countries vacationing.
From the Historical Museum in Heraklion (Byzantine art and iconogragphy). . .
The visit yesterday was to the Palace of Knossso, not the “castle”, and we followed up with a time at the Historical Museum in Heraklion this morning learning about the first and second Byzantine periods on Crete, the Arab influence that was sandwiched between the Byzantine periods, and the Venetian period that lasted through the mid 17th century.
We saw a great deal of the beautiful icons, tapestries, altar pieces, and vestments of the Greek Orthodox tradition from the Byzantne periods. It is clear that the Orthodox tradition permeates so much of Greek life. In talking to Christos, he mentioned that during the 60's and 70's there was a drop in attendance at Orthodox services, but there seems to be a resurgence in commitment to the church in Greece. He also noted that it does not have so much of a fundamentalist element within the piety, but the tradition (and particularly the focus on Christ) is what dominates.
We stopped on our way to Matalla at Gortis, which is the site of an community dating back to the 3rd or 4th century BCE. It is known for the law of Gortis which is chiseled upon a wall behind the theater of the old town. The law is one of the oldest expressions we have of rules governing common life (e.g. the rights of intermarriage between a slave and free person, what is just compensation for particular grievances, etc.). The society was divided into four parts: citizens with full rights, citizens with rights except being a Cretan, slaves who were free but enlisted to care for crops surrounding the town, and slaves who were owned.
In Gortis, the remains of the basilica of Titus are to be found. Titus was charged by Paul to evangelize Crete. He was from a wealthy family and was killed by the Romans for his work on Crete. The basilica is built upon his grave, though it was not built until the 6th century.
Throughout our trip, we have talked with various people about the economy in Greece. While we have been in Greece, there have been a few strikes (interestingly, the U.S. soccer victory over Algeria was done without announcers as they striked for a few days. No loss: it would have been Greek to us all anyway). We have never felt any threat, and the strikes in Greece are quite orderly. In fact, the fire started at a bank—and killed a few bank workers--a few months ago during a general protest was considered a devastating event and unheard of in modern strikes.
A consistent refrain during conversations about the economy is a direct or indirect reference to immigrants (Albanians, Africans, Pakistanis, etc.) as a major part of the problem. Yes, there was graft in the government. Yes, there was overreaching by many with regard to credit. Yes, there need to be more expectations of workers. Yes . . . but “things are not like they once were, and the immigrants. . .” was a quote we heard more than once. The answer to immigration in Greece or elsewhere is one that does not possess a silver bullet, and I see it as multi-faceted. What is interesting (and scary) is the nationalism approaching xenophobia when things are tough. It will be interesting to see what is done here.
Finally, a wonderful aspect of the trip has been following the World Cup soccer tournament while we are here. We were in a hotel yesterday filled with Germans and Brits, and the game between the two countries was enjoyable to watch as a soccer fan as well as to be a spectator of the spectators. There is a very strong worldly element in Crete with many people from many countries vacationing.
From the Historical Museum in Heraklion (Byzantine art and iconogragphy). . .
From Gortis and the basilica of TitusSunday, June 27, 2010
Pictures from Day 6 and 7
Standing by the bull's horns at the Minoan temple/castle site (where priests of the Minoans would have worked)
Saturday, June 26, 2010
Greece: Day 6
We are leaving Athens and heading to Crete this afternoon, so I got one last run in this morning. I was able to take in Hadrian’s Arch, the Acropolis, and the Aeropagus one more time. I spoke with Christos about the meaning of the Aeropagus. The word means the place “pagus” of Ares “the god of war”, and it was where 9 judges sat to rule on various disputes in the ancient world. In time, the judges were replaced by a jury of the people, and Aereopagus became a place where people gathered to discuss various issues.
Enter the apostle Paul in the early part of the first century. It is on the Aeropagus that he speaks with Athenians about the gospel of Jesus the Christ and is able to convert a few. The Acropolis dwarfs the Aeropagus, and it is easy to see how Paul makes his argument about the various gods to whom the people offer sacrfice (Zeus’ temple and a temple to Athena, Poseidon, and others rest atop the Acropolis). The history at this time is critical to the effectiveness of Paul’s argument.
The Roman and Greek gods worshipped in antiquity are tied to the health of the state, and, as you know, the Roman empire is in slow decline. Therefore, there is a desire on the part of some people to find the right deity to save oneself and the nation. Furthermore, those talking to Paul on the Aeropagus are probably wealthy and educated Athenians. The fact that some of them convert is clearly important for the furthering of this fledgling tradition. And it is precisely because of the rich religious ferment of Greece that a tradition like Christianity could get a foothold.
Add to all of this that so much of the Christian tradition copies or furthers so many of the myths that went before, it is easy to see how people could accept it and convert. In fact, our visit to the Archaelogical Museum this morning bore this out. A small statue of the fertility goddess with a child (clearly the prototype for what would become the Madonna and child icons) is fascinating as it comes 1000 years before Jesus.
For some, this reality is too much to bear. It rationalizes and explains away the belief system and attraction of early Christianity. However, far from explaining Christianity away, it gives an important context, while also holding out the meaning and import and critique of the existing systems that Christianity provided to early believers. It helps us to be self-critical as well as to believe. We should never assume that what we have the whole truth and nothing but the truth. If history is any indicator, we have a window into the reality of the divine that still can and will surprise us, particularly when we are the most smug in our belief that we have answered all there is to answer.
The history of Greece is a wonderful example of this tension between wonder and awe to do great things and the hardness of heart or hubris that ends up destroying that which is beautiful and wonderful and such an inspiration. Humility is critical to the whole process and project.
We are on the high speed "boat" that will get us to Crete in 6 hours. The Aegean is beautiful and the many islands varied and interesting. It is amazing to think of the many ships that populated these waters and furthered the development of civilization millennia ago.
Go U.S. in tonight's soccer game!
Friday, June 25, 2010
Greece Day 5
Today we participated in an exciting visit to the Acropolis and the Parthenon. What a fantastic structure and an amazing feat of human ingenuity, skill, and unimaginable brute human effort.
We visited the new New Acropolis Museum after touring the site. This is an amazing building and exhibit. As you enter from the outside, you realize that the museum itself is built upon the excavation of an older part of the city (which continues to be an active dig). The floor in the museum is clear, so that you can see the former tower, houses and travelways of the old city. The piece de resistance of the museum was the top floor with a clear view of the Parthenon. The entire top floor is the frieze that is supposed to surround the top of the Parthenon. Some of it is present in the museum, other parts are lost to history, and a major portion of the frieze exists in the British Museum (thanks to Lord Elgin).
I suspect many of you are aware of the legal battle going on between Greece and England for the return of what Elgin took to Greece. As Christos, our King guide, noted, "The English use the argument that the frieze portions are in London for safe keeping, and the New Acropolis Museum exhibit (with recreations of the portions held by the British Museum holding the place until the elements might be returned) is the answer to that claim. The safe-keeping in Greece is ready and waiting."
Among the sad realities of some of the frieze portions is the damage done to the pieces by the Christian community that took over after paganism died out. Some of the beautiful sculptures are worn down to nothing. It is understandable that the early Christian worshipers in the Parthenon would have transformed the space into their own style. Unfortunately, they destroyed some wonderful art work. It is interesting, as well, that not all of the portions were damaged. What criteria was used to preserve or deface certain pieces? What makes a site holy? Or profane? Interesting.
We moved onto the Athens subway which you would not think is a major historical site, but in Greece, it sure is. As they built the subway, they unearthed parts of the former city and in many of the subways, they have exhibits of what was found: grave stones, oil lamps, jars, etc. Along the wall of the subway stop we visited, they had a time line of the various layers of earth that were removed, what time each layer represents, and what they found there. I would think commuting would be given a different flavor with such exhibits.
Finally, we visited the Benakis home and Emmanuel Benakis' extensive collection donated by his son Antonis. It was unbelievable. It makes the Frick look like a popsicle stand. There is art from every era. A wonderful collection of icons and Greek paintings, work from El Greco, and extensive Greek heritage pieces (clothing, jewelry, rooms, sculpture, paintings, and a major selection of items that honor the Greek independence begun in 1821.
One interesting note was that Benakis worked in Egypt and had a number of paintings done by Egyptians that were placed with the dead as a way to remember them. Some scholars believe this may have been an influence to the early icon writing of the Greek Orthodox tradition. Again, many influences, connections, and outcomes.
Olympic Stadium of 1896
Hadrian's Arch
The rock adjacent the Acroplis from which Paul preached the Athenians
Benakis Museum artwork
We visited the new New Acropolis Museum after touring the site. This is an amazing building and exhibit. As you enter from the outside, you realize that the museum itself is built upon the excavation of an older part of the city (which continues to be an active dig). The floor in the museum is clear, so that you can see the former tower, houses and travelways of the old city. The piece de resistance of the museum was the top floor with a clear view of the Parthenon. The entire top floor is the frieze that is supposed to surround the top of the Parthenon. Some of it is present in the museum, other parts are lost to history, and a major portion of the frieze exists in the British Museum (thanks to Lord Elgin).
I suspect many of you are aware of the legal battle going on between Greece and England for the return of what Elgin took to Greece. As Christos, our King guide, noted, "The English use the argument that the frieze portions are in London for safe keeping, and the New Acropolis Museum exhibit (with recreations of the portions held by the British Museum holding the place until the elements might be returned) is the answer to that claim. The safe-keeping in Greece is ready and waiting."
Among the sad realities of some of the frieze portions is the damage done to the pieces by the Christian community that took over after paganism died out. Some of the beautiful sculptures are worn down to nothing. It is understandable that the early Christian worshipers in the Parthenon would have transformed the space into their own style. Unfortunately, they destroyed some wonderful art work. It is interesting, as well, that not all of the portions were damaged. What criteria was used to preserve or deface certain pieces? What makes a site holy? Or profane? Interesting.
We moved onto the Athens subway which you would not think is a major historical site, but in Greece, it sure is. As they built the subway, they unearthed parts of the former city and in many of the subways, they have exhibits of what was found: grave stones, oil lamps, jars, etc. Along the wall of the subway stop we visited, they had a time line of the various layers of earth that were removed, what time each layer represents, and what they found there. I would think commuting would be given a different flavor with such exhibits.
Finally, we visited the Benakis home and Emmanuel Benakis' extensive collection donated by his son Antonis. It was unbelievable. It makes the Frick look like a popsicle stand. There is art from every era. A wonderful collection of icons and Greek paintings, work from El Greco, and extensive Greek heritage pieces (clothing, jewelry, rooms, sculpture, paintings, and a major selection of items that honor the Greek independence begun in 1821.
One interesting note was that Benakis worked in Egypt and had a number of paintings done by Egyptians that were placed with the dead as a way to remember them. Some scholars believe this may have been an influence to the early icon writing of the Greek Orthodox tradition. Again, many influences, connections, and outcomes.
Olympic Stadium of 1896
Hadrian's Arch
The rock adjacent the Acroplis from which Paul preached the Athenians
Benakis Museum artwork
Greece: Day 4
We traveled to Delphi to see the ruins of what is known as the oracle and what also was a holy site where people gathered to give offerings of thanks or seek support for someone or something from the gods. The site also was a place of culture and games (much like Olympia).
The drive to Delphi is spectacular. You rise up from the sea to a perch with a view out over 3 million olive trees (yes, 3 million!) and down the drainage of two mountains coming together (a reminder of Montana).
What was striking about this site is the fact (as well with so much of the various sites in Greece) that it was such a vibrant place of religion, commerce, art and athleticism that, at a certain point, was literally buried, lost, and--most importantly--forgotten. You realize the wealth of human ingenuity, artisanship, and beauty can be so easily buried by the violence, greed, and destruction of humanity. I asked the kids if they could imagine the same thing happening to New York City. I received incredulous stares, but the question is one that is vital to keep in front of us when considering what is it that we understand to be vital to living well together and for our posterity.
On the way to Delphi, we admired the mountain peak, Parnassus. It is a great site to consider if you like to ski. Yes, there is a beautiful mountain village that places you near the site of one of Greece's few ski areas.
Parnassus is also important because it is the very peak that the ark of Deucalion comes to rest in an ancient flood that covers the earth and Deucalion and his wife are the only survivors. Sound familiar? The sharing of ancient myths among the various traditions is extremely interesting and that which you cannot escape when amidst the history and mythological ferment of Greece.
Views from Delphi. . .
i
The drive to Delphi is spectacular. You rise up from the sea to a perch with a view out over 3 million olive trees (yes, 3 million!) and down the drainage of two mountains coming together (a reminder of Montana).
What was striking about this site is the fact (as well with so much of the various sites in Greece) that it was such a vibrant place of religion, commerce, art and athleticism that, at a certain point, was literally buried, lost, and--most importantly--forgotten. You realize the wealth of human ingenuity, artisanship, and beauty can be so easily buried by the violence, greed, and destruction of humanity. I asked the kids if they could imagine the same thing happening to New York City. I received incredulous stares, but the question is one that is vital to keep in front of us when considering what is it that we understand to be vital to living well together and for our posterity.
On the way to Delphi, we admired the mountain peak, Parnassus. It is a great site to consider if you like to ski. Yes, there is a beautiful mountain village that places you near the site of one of Greece's few ski areas.
Parnassus is also important because it is the very peak that the ark of Deucalion comes to rest in an ancient flood that covers the earth and Deucalion and his wife are the only survivors. Sound familiar? The sharing of ancient myths among the various traditions is extremely interesting and that which you cannot escape when amidst the history and mythological ferment of Greece.
Views from Delphi. . .
i
Thursday, June 24, 2010
Pictures from Olympi
These were taken at the site of the Olympic games of 776 BCE and the museum. Pretty amazing.
By the Palestra (wrestling room)
The remains of the Christian Church that has its back to all the pagan activities found on the grounds
The remains of the pillars of the temple of Zeus. The pillar standing is what the height of the fallen pillars
The group in front of the temple to Hera
In the museum . . .
Statue of Hermes (sorry about the lighting)
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